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Thursday, March 12, 2020

Dunkeld Cathedral


A bit north of us is Dunkeld with its cathedral. It was begun in 1260 and completed in 1501. It has the curious distinction of being both a ruin and a functional church. The earliest parts of the current building date from 1318. It was partially destroyed during the reformation in 1560. The choir of the building has a roof and is currently used for the local parish church.


But this is holy ground. It was the location for a wattle monastery as early as 570 CE. When this was rebuilt in 848 in stone by Kenneth MacAlpin, King of Scots it used red stone. Some of these original stones were used in the current building.

The part that is currently used has wiring for lights and proper windows.


It is part Norman and part Gothic and all interesting. Inside (amazing, we found a church open!) we see wooden rafters that resemble the inverted hull of a boat.


The coat of arms of the Duke Atholl is carved in stone and positioned above the door to the Chapter House museum.


According to geograph.org:
The stained glass in the east window was the gift of Sir Donald Currie, to whose memory a bronze tablet is affixed on the south wall. In addition, the tablet records the reopening of the Cathedral after the restoration in 1908, and the dedication of the east window.

The flags displayed on the wall hold a bit of historical interest. On the right, the pair of flags are the colors carried into battle in the Crimea. According to "History of the Scottish Highlands: Highland Clans and Highland Regiments, with an Account of the Gaelic Language, Literature, and Music" (found here), these are the colors of the 42nd and the Athole Highlands.

On the left is the Tricoleur, presented to the Scottish Horse in 1918. Below, you can see part of the memorial in the wall to the Scottish Horse for their service.


Built into the wall is this marker of burial in the church from 1684


Near the altar is the "priest's squint", the place from which the priest could keep an eye on things from the adjoining chapter house.


Behind the altar is the grave of Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan, known as "the Wolf of Badenoch", was buried in the cathedral following his death in 1405, where his tomb, surmounted by his armoured effigy, can still be seen (wikipedia).


The carvings along the side are also interesting.


There is also a memorial to the 42nd highlanders who were lost in the sepoy mutiny 1857-59.


This memorial to one of the ministers, is remarkably complete and detailed.


In the chapter house museum, we find this display of coats of arms.


Outside, there are various very old gravestones.


The original nave of the church still stand in ruins. It is currently undergoing some pretty major repairs.


As you can see, the window openings have survived, but not in great shape.


A look inside the construction area shows the scale of both the building and the renovation.


At the end of the building is the bell tower.


And inside the bell tower, we find a stone from the 1689 battle of Dunkeld. It seems a soldier, like those of all times and places, took time to carve his initials and the date. A medieval "kilroy was here".


A final fun fact about Dunkeld. Apparently, Beatrix Potter wrote 'The Tale of Peter Rabbit' during one of her summer holidays in Dunkeld.

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