The musings of itinerants exploring the world as house/pet sitters and enjoying every minute of it.
Sunday, December 01, 2019
Gellért-hegyi sziklatemplom
On the Buda side of the Danube stands a rocky outcrop and within it a large cave that is a Catholic Church. It was established by the Pauline Order, a Hungarian monk hermit order that still exists today.
In front of the church is a statue of St. Stephen, the first King of Hungary and the one who brought Christianity to the country. In the background is the Liberty bridge, Szabadság Híd. More on that tomorrow.
When you turn around, what you see is the entrance to the cave.
Inside is a space, largely carved out of the mountain is a space that looks little like a church in the conventional sense.
One of the first things you come to is this display. There is a statue of Mary with the boy Jesus at her side, the head of St. Stephen, and the flag of Hungary with the sacred heart sewn into the center.
There are few small side chapels for prayers.
And the surprisingly small main altar with its jarringly utilitarian lights.
In a small alcove at the back of the church is a small stained glass window and the Turul, a mythical bird, likely based on a large falcon. It is one of the national symbols of Hungary.
The Paulines, were dispersed during the Communist occupation, but have since returned to occupy the monastery found on the side of the rock outcropping holding the church.
They have been active in Hungary nearly as long as it has been a Christian nation. This church was built in 1931. In 1782, Emperor Joseph abolish the order and confiscated all their estates. It was only in 1934 that they returned and reestablish themselves here, at the cave church. Then in 1951, they were summarily rounded up and expelled from the country and the entrance to the church was blocked with a two-meter thick concrete wall. It was in 1989, after the change in regime, that they finally returned and reopened the church.
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