The Red Center

There is really on two directions to go to leave Alice Springs: north or south. We're headed north to Tennant Creek at the moment. Not far north of Alice Springs, we are past the Macdonald Ranges and the land levels out and the true scope of where we are driving becomes clear. We are in the red center of a nearly unimaginably large, seemingly empty place filled with wonders.

There are trees in the distance, but they are not very tall or densely growing. Mostly, there is grass here. We are just north of the Tropic of Capricorn here. There is a monument at the roadside announcing the location of this line.

There are spots with little grass or trees. Just lots of red dirt. Scenes like this one really bring into focus how reliant we are on our transport. If the truck dies, we are in trouble. I wouldn't say serious trouble since there is a reasonable amount of traffic on this road...perhaps a car every 5-15 minutes. Much more traffic that we had on the Great Central Road.

But, we had no mishaps and the ute ran like a top. The speed limit out here in the Northern Territory is 130 kph (a little less than 81 mph). We chose our stops so we didn't have to drive this fast; we stuck with 100 kph as a safe speed. Later, on our return south, we cheated and pushed it on up to 125, 130 to get on with it. For now we are cruising and enjoying the countryside.

Something else the keen eye will see that in the Northern Territory, people are not so careful about littering as they are in other places. Compared to any other state we've been in in Australia, this is covered in rubbish.

Alice Springs Desert Park

Our second day in Alice Springs we travelled a bit farther afield and took a few hours at the Alice Springs Desert Park. This is an amazing place. It is a little like a zoo, but only in places; a little like an open piece of desert, but only in places; and an all around great place to go. Mornings are best because it really does get hot.

Above, is the Spinifex Dove, a colorful relative to our old friend the crested dove. You'd be amazed to see how easily these animals disappear against the red desert sand and rocks.

Alice Springs

After leaving the Reptile Center, we hit up a couple more museums in Alice Springs. First stop was the Royal Doctor Flying Service museum. As in Broken Hill, we took the tour but learned little new information. There was lots of focus on John Flynn, the founder, since he lived in the Northern Territory. We did get to see inside a mock up of one the planes. This is a little startling. The space inside small when you consider that there will be times when the patient will need serious assistance and this is going to be tricky.

Alice Springs Reptile Center

Our first outing in Alice Springs took us the Alice Springs Reptile Center. As you might guess, this place has reptiles every where. Rather than give you a catalog of all 37 animals we saw, here are a few highlights. Above is the Mulga, also known the King Black snake.

Driving to Alice Springs

On the way up the Lasseter Highway taking us from Yulara to the Stuart Highway and one to Alice Springs, we stopped for a look at Mt Cooper. This is much different from Uluru. It looks to be a regular mesa in the desert.

No longer Campers, We are

As of today, we've sold our Tent, both sleeping bags, both camping chairs, and the air mattress. We are now out of the camping business. If we can sell the extra GPS (Australian maps only, voice has a delightful accent), we'll be done with all that travel stuff we gathered to get through our trip west, north, and back.

Our pile of things keeps shrinking and the stuff coming home is slowly getting consolidated for the start of official packing in about 6 weeks.

Uluru at Sunrise

Our last day at Yulara, we again arose early and headed down the road to Uluru for our second sunrise. We were paid for our effort with a spectacular sight of a glowing red stone.

Kata Tjuta at Sunset

In an effort for completeness, we stopped by Kata Tjuta at sunset. This was much more spectacular than sunrise.

Mutitjula Waterhole

Just to the left of the large tree on the left is a gouge in Uluru. This leads down to Mutitjula waterhole. Farther around to the left is this missing bite from Uluru where it seems like a dandy place to take shelter. This combined with the water made this corner a well used place to live during the season when Aboriginals were in residence.

Sunrise at Kata Tjuta

We awoke with the stars still shining brightly overhead. At this time of day and in this season, Orion was about a third of the way up in the sky. We put on yesterday's clothes, grabbed some yogurt and hit the road. In about 50 minutes, we reached the sunrise lookout for Kata Tjuta. This is a metal platform getting us up above the surrounding vegetation.

Uluru

Uluru. It is a majestic place. It feels more visiting Notre Dame or perhaps I should compare it to the temple at Karnak. Something ancient, built to an alien design, imposing, and serene.

After visiting the culture center, we gained a tiny glimpse of what this enormous rock means to the people who have lived here, in this place, for perhaps 22,000 years.

Entering the Northern Territory

Finally near the end of the long stretch of unsealed road as we enter the Northern Territory.

Leaving Western Australia

After Warburton, we had intended to stop for the night in Warakurna but we had two reasons for not doing so.

First, we had a real outback experience in Warburton. Even though there were lights on in the campground all night and the facility was surrounded by a fence with a locked gate and razor wire around the top everywhere, three kids climbed the fence and robbed us. We failed to lock the ute and they got into it and took some money (~$20-$30 or so). Elizabeth awoke to a person starring in the tent and when he called out, they all ran away. We were shaken but safe. No serious damage done. However, this make us a bit skiddish concerning another night on this section of the road.

Secondly, we found that we needed only a couple hours to get to Warakurna, so we kept going. On this, the third day on the unsealed road, we travelled on to Yulara in the Northern Territory. We again found camels.

Animals on the Road

On the Great Central Road between Tjukayirla and Warburton, we met a couple interesting friends. One is the Mulga or King Brown Snake. It is the second longest poisonous snake in Australia (second only to the Coastal Taipan).

Tjukayirla Roadhouse

Our first night on the Great Central Road we stay in the campground at the Tjukayirla Roadhouse. Except for us, it was empty. Completely. We took a spot under a canopy so we could have some shade. Near our campsite was a hose along which the ants were traveling.

The Road

I thought you'd appreciate a few views of the road we are travelling here. It is all graded wide and as smooth as possible. The traffic, especially the large trucks for mining traffic, generate the corrugations. This means that it is graded once or twice a year to knock this down a bit. But the bumps remain.

Birds

About an hour before we reached Tjukayirla Roadhouse, we stopped at the Gnamma Hole. This is a small water hole just off the road. Here we found a flock of Galahs.

Cars along the Road

A sight we'd been told of were the abandoned cars along the Great Central Road. I've collected a few to show you the general character of what is out there.

Getting Serious about Driving

We spent the night in Laverton, a small town on the edge of what we softies would call civilization. Beyond here be dragons, arrrgh!

The thing that was scary and uncertain about planning this trip was estimating the time between stops. The first two stops on the sign you see above are, in fact, the next two possible stops. Google Maps gives travel times between these stops as 7 or 8 hours but when I make an estimate based on a sensibly slow driving speed, I get 3-5 hours. How knows how long all this will take. What is the road like? Will there be mud or robbers? We don't know. It's a mystery. It's an adventure.

Gwalia

Not far from Laverton, the end of the sealed road, is a mine at Gwalia. This is a mature gold mine that is still in operation. It is one seriously deep hole in the ground. that truck you see toward the right side is a really big one.

Menzies

Not far beyond Kalgoorlie is the hamlet of Menzies. Here, there is a roadhouse covered in auto license plates. Not a building you see every day.

Kalgoorlie

If it seems like you are getting a full dose on cemeteries...you are. We are on the road, making tracks east and we only stop for fuel (ours and the ute's) and things that catch our attention. So far, that's mostly been cemeteries.

Coolgardie

On the way into in Coolgardie, we passed a sign for a camel farm. there are places in the outback where people grow/farm/husband(?) camels for sale. We're told that more camels are grown in Australia than in the middle east. It seems the ones grown here are very good for the middle eastern camel races.

Karalee Rocks and Dam Campground

Our first night on the road is at Karalee Rocks and Dam Campground. It is a clearing in the forest where people park their caravans and pitch tents. Here you see ours. You can all see that E has her fly net on since the flies are pretty bothersome here.

The Rabbit Proof Fence

Next we came to the remnants of the rabbit proof fence. This is a bold undertaking to deal with a previous bold undertaking that was really stupid: the introduction of rabbits. No natural predators. Animals that reproduce like...rabbits. Who could have figured out that this might be a teeny problem?

Tammin Cemetery

Of course, our drive east started with another cemetery. Along the Great Eastern Highway we came across the hamlet of Walgoolan and the Tammin Cemetery. This was the most unusual cemetery in Australia we've visited (so far).

Tasmania!

We have arrived in Tasmania! Our road trip of nearly 10,000 km has reached a successful conclusion. All Is well. Blog entries about our trip will begin appearing soon.

All Saints Church Cemetery

After we left Pearsall, we headed to Guildford on the Swan river not far away to prepare for the long trip. Not far from Guildford is one of the early churches in this part of the country. According to Wikipedia,

The All Saints Church in Henley Brook is the oldest^[1] church in Western Australia. It was built by Richard Edwards between 1838 and 1840 with the first service taking place on 10 January 1841. The site is on a small hill overlooking the Swan River and near the conjunction of the Swan and Ellen Brook. This site was where Captain James Stirling camped during his 1827 exploration of the area.

B&W Retrospective

As I do from time to time, I bring you a look back on our recent travels to explore a few locations in monochrome. The road above is just south of Norseman. While this is not part of the longest straight road, it is long and straight.

Farewell to the Indian Ocean

Due west of us is the suburb of Mullaloo on the Indian Ocean. We drove over to have a last walk on the beach and a last chance to dip our toes in the ocean on the western shore.

Perry Lake

Another lake not far from the city center is Perry Lake. We found this place to be very restful. Lots of trees and a reedy wetland around the edge of the lake. Wandering among the reeds was a family of Pacific Black Ducks. At this time of the year, we see lots of ducklings.

Fremantle Market

The Fremantle market is open Friday-Sunday. We decided to try a visit on a Friday to avoid the mash of people we encountered on our previous Saturday visit.

Monger Lake

We found a few places near Perth where we can see a few birds without having to drive for hours. One of these is Monger Lake in the Wembley suburb. Here we found the Australian Shelduck.

Herdsman Lake

Not far from us, near the Ikea, is Herdsman Lake. We stopped by to have a look at the local bird life. Of course, we found the Pacific Black Duck straight away.

Lesmurdie Falls

We drove to a nearby park to see Lesmurdie Falls. The walk from the car park first led us by Lesmurdie brook. It was nice and cool under the trees on the hot day under a clear blue sky.

Cemetery in Gingin

In the small town of Gingin, there is another cemetery, beside a small chapel in town that is quite different from the one you saw here yesterday. This one is filled with stories I can read.

Cemetery North of Gingin

Cemeteries are typically places filled with gravestones that tell stories. These stories are told by the engraving on the stone. A kind of stone age tweet of a life. This cemetery just north of Gingin, about an hour away, is filled with graves that really break the mold.

Styles of Living

I found an interesting way to compare living styles - Google Map. Consider the section of Staunton, VA. This is a suburb that those of you in Virginia may well recognize.

Perth

While we were on the hill in Kings Park overlooking the city, I thought it time to take a few photos of the city.

War Memorial

King's Park in Perth is locating on a hill with a commanding view of the confluence of the Swan and Canning Rivers. Located on the bluff overlooking the Swan is the memorial to those lost in war.

The eternal flame burning above this reflection pool was lit in 2000 by Queen Elizabeth.

The Tawny Frogmouth

While in the King's Park, a fellow was all excited, he'd found a Tawny Frogmouth. Now, this is something to get excited about. This is a nocturnal bird related to the nightjar. In fact, he'd found three of them!

Above you see the backside of one of them sitting in the crotch of a tree. But it gets better.

Kings Park and Botanic Gardens

As our long-time readers know, pretty much every town in Australia seems to have a botanical garden. We visited one of the more amazing ones here in Perth.

Fremantle Prison

The prison at Fremantle was built originally to house convicts transported from Britain at the request of the Australians. They needed people to work, so they asked the motherland for help. Unlike the other sites for housing those transported, they were able to have a say in who they accepted.

The WA Maritime Museum

When we learned that there is a maritime museum in Perth we were excited. When we arrived we learned that there is a visiting exhibition about Pompeii and the evacuation by sea after the eruption of Vesuvius. This was going to be great.

Burns Beach

After leaving the aquarium, we drove along the shore to Burns Beach to enjoy the shore a little.

Aquarium of Western Australia

Out of Victoria Quay in the Hillarys suburb of Perth is the Aquarium of Western Australia (AQWA). We decided to visit to see what we could learn about the western sea life.

On the way in we saw this young fellow on the quay trying to catch a fish. He's not quite a excerpt from Norman Rockwell, but he does seem to capture the essence of being young in Australia.

New Norcia Cemtery

As is often the case, the high point of our visit to New Norcia is the cemetery.

New Norcia

In 1846, the Benedictine monks arrived at a spot about 132 km north of Perth on a mission to convert the local aboriginals. And, thus, New Norcia was founded. It remains a town largely inhabited by the monks. We spoke to the young woman in the hotel bar that served us our cider and learned that she commutes an hour each way to work.

Thrombolites

A ride in the country toward Waroona took us past some fields that were beginning to show signs of lots of wild flowers. Unfortunately, I could not capture the scene in any sensible way with my pixel grabbing machine.

On the way home, however, I did find a fascinating place that I could capture: Lake Clifton.

Araluen Botanical Garden

The Araluen Botanical Garden is located about an hour north of Mandurah. We decided to visit to see the flowers we've been hearing about. While it was surprisingly low on birds, it was a rich environment of flowers.