Tjukayirla Roadhouse

Our first night on the Great Central Road we stay in the campground at the Tjukayirla Roadhouse. Except for us, it was empty. Completely. We took a spot under a canopy so we could have some shade. Near our campsite was a hose along which the ants were traveling.



We've entered a different world here. At the front of the roadhouse are the fuel pumps. Unlike anywhere else we've been until now, there is a lock on the fuel pump handles. In addition, the entirety of each pump is enclosed in a metal cage with a mesh fine enough to prevent more than a slim finger inserted.

It seems these precautions are a result of being in an area inhabited by aboriginals. Moreover, there are apparently many aboriginals who are eager to inhale the fumes from unleaded fuel to get high. As a result, the fuels companies have created a new, more expensive version of unleaded petrol that has very low volatiles. This fuel, called opal is the only sort of unleaded found in the outback.

In the outback is the only place in Australia that we got full service at the pump. You find someone and tell them you want to buy diesel. They come to the pump, unlock the cage and the pump handle, and fill your ute. A small slip of paper is filled in with the type and amount of fuel and the lot is locked up again. You take the slip of paper in the roadhouse and pay.

And boy do you pay! Fuel is $2 Australian here per liter for diesel. The highest price we found was at Warburton for $2.06/liter. since we are camping, we naturally need ice for the cooler (or esky, as they are called here). Here is $15/bag.

The food at the roadhouse was edible but not much more. Something fried is $15+. In the entirety of the camping area there was no patch of grass; it was all gravel.

The entire site is powered by a diesel generator that we listened to as it ran all night. While there is a satellite dish on-site somewhere so that the roadhouse has TV service, there is no wifi or cell service. We're pretty much out there.