Dohány utcai Zsinagóga

In case you were wondering what the Hungarian in the title says, this is a post about the Tobacco Street Synagogue. This very large synagogue is a real marvel in style, scale, and execution. The architects choose a moorish style for the inside and out. Wikipedia tells us:

Built in a residential area between 1854-1859 by the Jewish community of Pest according to the plans of Ludwig Förster, the monumental synagogue has a capacity of 2,964 seats (1,492 for men and 1,472 in the women's galleries), making it the largest in Europe and one of the largest working synagogues in the world (after the Beit Midrash of Ger in Jerusalem, the Belz Great Synagogue and Temple Emanu-el in New York City). The consecration of the synagogue took place on 6 September 1859.

The interior feels like the amalgam of an opera house and a church. Depending on how you measure (buy seats, floor area, etc.) this is the second or third largest synagogue in the world.

The round light globes on each of the many lights in the chandeliers give the place an oddly modern look in spite of the surrounding decorations.

Richly appointed everywhere in gleaming wood and painted walls, it is real feast for the eyes. If all this looks pretty new, it is because it mostly is. Once again, from Wikipedia:

The synagogue was bombed by the Hungarian pro-Nazi Arrow Cross Party on 3 February 1939.^[4] Used as a base for German Radio and also as a stable during World War II, the building suffered some severe damage from aerial raids during the Nazi Occupation but especially during the Siege of Budapest. During the Communist era, the damaged structure became again a prayer house for the much-diminished Jewish community. Its restoration and renovation started in 1991, financed by the state and by private donations, and was completed in 1998

The arches are carved carved in the moorish style with the many small arches around the edges and the ceiling is laid out in sections remenicient of the sections of the ceiling over a nave in a Catholic church.

There is even a pulpit very similar to that found in a church.

But the torah-ark area is distinctly Jewish. Although it is bit hard to see, there is a pipe organ here with the pipes located up high near the dome above the altar area. The organ here has played an important role. From Wikipedia:

Franz Liszt and Camille Saint-Saëns played the original 5,000-pipe organ built in 1859.^[7] A new mechanical organ with 63 voices and four manuals was built in 1996 by the German firm Jehmlich Orgelbau Dresden GmbH. One of the most important concerts in the Synagogue's history was in 2002, by the organ virtuoso Xaver Varnus. A crowd of 7,200 filled sanctuary seats and standing space some four hours before the concert^{[citation needed]} to hear the artist’s virtuosity.

Note: Remember that there a bit fewer than 3,000 seats in this place. This means the more than 4,000 people were left standing where ever there was space for this concert. Rock stars got nothing on Varnus Xaver! He packs them in everywhere.

Looking toward the rear, we see the multiple balconies that enable the place to hold some 3000 people. Apparently, men sit on the main floor and women sit in the balconies. Everybody gets a good seat.

The entry alcove is separated from the main seating area by the set of arches that you see below. These look almost exactly like the ones we saw at the Alhambra, notched with the small replica arches all around the edge.

This is beautiful space and one you should visit on your trip to Budapest.

In the entryway, the ceilings follow the design but with a bit different color scheme from the ceiling of the main hall.

To one side of the synagogue is a cemetery. Rather than paraphrase the information poorly remembered from our visit or from Wikipedia, here is what Wikipedia says about this:

It is not customary to have a cemetery next to a synagogue, and the establishment of the 3,000 m² cemetery was only the result of historical circumstances. In 1944, as a part of the Eichmann-plan, 70,000 Jews were relocated to the Ghetto of Pest. Until 18 January 1945, when the Russians liberated the ghetto, around 8,000 to 10,000 people had died, although, one part of the deceased were transferred to the Kozma Street Cemetery, but 2,000 people were buried in the makeshift cemetery.

What you see below are memorial markers placed by the surviving family at the edge of the mass graves where these people were buried.

So, this location is one of solemn remembrance along with the worship that takes place inside the synagogue.

It is also the location of the birthplace of Theodor Herzl which stood where this cemetery now exists. The connections to past and present are many and deep here.