As promised, we returned to the cemetery in the evening of All Saints Day to see a cemetery full of light and life. It was certainly a place filled with both.
As we scanned the scene, we found a place illuminated by candle light. And since the candles were on the ground or the tombs directly, it has the feel of a place where the light is created somehow by the permanent residents themselves.
Before leaving the house, we put out the table settings for the departed, and set out salt, bread, and water for them. We left a light on in the dinning room for them to feel welcome.
With all the lights (and people), we felt welcome in their current home.
The most amazing place was near the entrance of the cemetery where a cross stands with a metal icon the crucified Christ. This is the place where so many people come to deposit a lit candle and, it would seem, say a prayer.
Parents brought their children, some quite small, to stand by the candles or to add another one. This seems like a much saner way to spend this holiday than by overeating candy.
This is certainly not ancestor worship. It is a day of remembrance and healing. It is a time of restoring the connection of family. We saw graves hold those who died nearly 100 years ago, cleaned, lit, and decorated with flowers. This is being done by a brother or a daughter. These connections continue for generations. Family ties are strong and this annual event keeps them them that way.
I can't help but wonder how such a family and community building holiday managed to survive the communist era. Hungarians are truly a remarkable people.
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