Christmas Memories: Stockholm 2015

Since looking at more leaves and berries is boring, I've decided to revisit more of the Christmases of the past. Today we have a short look at our trip to Stockholm in 2015. We start with folks buying fresh trees along the street.

About Stockholm

I write this from the airport, having finished a breakfast sandwich and some coffee that would have powered the entire 7th Fleet for a week. The instant caffeine headache is slowly subsiding. It seems like a good time to post a few thoughts on our first visit to Sweden.

Waiting for the tram on Strandvägen.

Biskvi!

Steve has been encouraging me to contribute to our blog. Fossilized Catholics such as myself can't imagine anyone being interested in our mundanity, but I've compromised by agreeing to write about my favorite topic -- yummy, interesting, special food treats.

Meet, the biskvi. The biskvi is a Scandinavian Christmastime treat we discovered by serendipity in Cafe Kladdakan, a cozy coffee shop in Gamla Stan, Stockholm. Biskvi is composed of a chewy almond macaroon base with buttercream filling, clothed in chocolate that crackles when you bite into it. Loosen your stays, ladies, the combination of textures and flavors will make you swoon.

Speaking of swooning, biskvi are also called Sarah Bernhardt Cookies, but most of the US recipes I found lean more toward marshmallow than buttercream. Here's a recipe that sounds right to me.

I'm not kidding you when I say this is the most delicious thing I've ever tasted.

Stockholm Stadshus

Stockholm City Hall from the "inside.".The building is an open rectangle.

The Stockholm Stadshus (City Hall) is an impressive structure. Outside, it has a great tower in one corner and sits directly across the lake from our hotel. Inside, however, it is a special place.

The LogInn Hotel

MS Kronprinsesse Märtha, a cruiseship ordered in 1928 was built by the "International Ship-building and Engineering Co" in Danzig. It was delivered in the summer of 1929 to Stavanger, Norway.

The MS Kronprinsesse Märtha.

Vasa!

In the early 17th Century, Sweden was at war with Poland. King of Sweden, Gustavus Adolphus, decided to build a ship that was to be a game changer. Very few ships at this time had two decks of guns. He wanted that. He wanted a heavily armed ship that was fast. As you can tell by trying to push your hand through water palm-first or to the side with all fingers following in a line, a narrower ship is going to be easier to move through the water faster.

Boxing Day Update

Katla on the prowl.

On Christmas and Boxing Days we had some down time and enjoyed the cats we are sitting. One cat, Katla, is, oddly enough, allowed outside. Above is Katla prowling her domain.

Gamla Stan

The Christmas Market in the Stortorget Square in Gamla Stan.

Old Town is a fun place. Lots of old but well maintained buildings and delightful stores. Above is a view of the annual Christmas Market. Although we've been told (repeatedly) on the web that the Stockholm has some of the best markets, it didn't seem to be anything special. Compared to Vienna, it is small. The selection on Gamla Stan is very good, not extensive. Lots of toys and candy. Some choices of mulled wine and sausages, but these are more limited. Of course, compared to the gigantic "market" in Hyde Park, London, this is a backwater. The one in London is what it would look like in the US if we did such a thing - overdone, extensive, exhausting, wonderful, impressive, and expensive.

Exploring Stockholm

View of Gamla Stan (Old Town) from Södermalm.  Please note that this was taken near mid-day.

Stockholm is a beautiful city. In spite of the fact that the winters are dark and (typically) cold, people have been living here a long time - since at least the 6th Century BC. Wikipedia claims that the name first appeared in print about 1252. Today, Stockholm is a large city (about 2.2 million in the metro area), the largest in the Nordic region.

Plans Are Set

The Vasa Museum (Photo Ola Ericson).

The wheels are turning, and travel plans are getting made. We are really going to Stockholm for Christmas!

And since there is always need of a bit of time at the beginning and end of travel to match travel and house sitting schedules, we are staying before and after our house sit in a hotel that is a ship.

LogInn Hotel, M/S Kronprinsesse Märtha, located by the Södermälarstrand.

Do you think I can manage to get sea sick while the ship is tied up in port? This is going to be fun!

Stockholm at Christmas

St. George and the Dragon at the Storkyrkan.

The plan is to spend Christmas break in Stockholm (taking care of a kitty). Days are short: sun up by 9-ish and sun down by about 16:00. Then there are those Swedes - they have a different word for everything (to quote Steve Martin).